Ice/Mixed Climbing Preseason Training Program

PROGRAM OVERVIEW
This training program is specifically designed to prepare athletes for the ice/mixed climbing season. It is designed to prepare athletes for technical, roped up mixed and ice climbing using ice climbing tools.

This is Version 2 of the Plan, Updated October 2025.

Our goals with this program are 3 fold: 

1. Train your “sport specific” ice/mixed climbing grip strength and grip endurance. By far, your limiting fitness factor will be grip strength and strength endurance. This training plan is focused here.
2. Train your core and calve strength, work capacity and overall stamina. These fitness attributes complement grip strength for ice climbing performance.
3. Build your “Mountain Fitness” – legs, lungs, core, and overall work capacity for approaches and long mountain days.

TRAINING PROGRAM DESCRIPTION

This is a  progressive, very intense, 6-week,  gym-based training program. You will train 4 days/week for a total of 24 training sessions. The intention is that Monday through Thursday are are training days. Friday, Saturday and Sunday are rest days.

REQUIRED EQUIPMENT

This training program is purposely designed to be completed with minimal training equipment. The Mountain Fitness components of the program will require the following equipment:

• Sandbag – Men will need a 60# sandbag, women a 40# sandbag.
• Dumbbells – Men will need two pairs of dumbbells, 25# and 35#. Women will also need two pairs of dumbbells, 15# and 25#.
• Bench/Box/Stool for Step ups – You’ll be doing thousands of step ups during this program and will need a 16-18 inch box, stool, bench, tire or something to do step ups on. Our step up benches are 17 inches high.
• 25-Pound Backpack – you’ll do the step ups loaded with a 25-pound pack. Use rocks, dumbbells, or whatever for weight.
• Pull up bar – You’ll need a pull up bar for pull ups and chin ups.

SYSTEM BOARD DETAILS
The Sport Specific parts of this climbing program require a system board, holds, and ice tools.  We train your sport specific grip strength by having you hang and do intervals using your ice tools on a system board. The minimum sized system board you’ll need is a 4×8 sheet of plywood set at a 25 degree angle. You can use common rock climbing holds with your tools, and also hardware such as old door hinges, door bolt brackets, eye bolts, etc. We use both.

While one 4×8 sheet of plywood is the minimum you’ll need to complete this program, space and cost allowing, we’d recommend you build at least 2 system boards – one at 25-degrees, and one at 45 degrees.

• Note: The training plan calls for work on both a 25-degree board and a 45-degree board. If you only have a 25-degree board, use it, but wear a 15# backpack when the plan calls for the 45-degree board.

You’ll be spending hours hanging on your system boards. This is very effective training, but pure drudgery. The more system boards you have the more variety you’ll have for movement … and the training will be more interesting.

You’ll also need a pull up bar, door frame, overhead floor or roof joist, eye bolts in the ceiling, etc. to do dead hangs on and Figure 4‘s using your ice tools.

In the clips below you’ll see examples of the system boards we use at Mountain Athlete.

ICE CLIMBING-SPECIFIC EXERCISES

Constant Movement Intervals – Several of the circuits in the training plan call for “constant movement” intervals. Constant Movement is a way we increase the intensity of the work, without adding extra weight to the athlete. Constant Movement means the athlete can’t “shake” during the work interval.  Here’s an example on a 45-degree system board:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inSxRXdCtiE,

If the circuit does not specifically dictate, “constant movement” – you can shake. For an example, go to minute 1:16 on this clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABXMSyZm2Qk

Calve Raise Intervals – Calves are one of the first things to go on early season ice climbing trips. We train your calves in the gym during this program using calve raise intervals. Go to minute 1:31 on this clip for an example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABXMSyZm2Qk

Figure 4’s – You’ll do figure 4‘s as part of your warm up 2 days/week during this program. If the warm up calls for 4x figure 4‘s each round, that means 4x total (2x each side). Click here for an example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9O44GCy0rw

Dead Hangs – Just what they sound like – hang from your tools for the designated interval, then rest for the designated rest interval, and repeat. Click here for an example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFCoDChoMOQ

Lock Offs – These should be self explanatory, and are completed on the 25-degree board. During the “rest” interval, it’s okay to step off the system board.

COMMON QUESTIONS

How long should the training sessions take? 
Most training sessions should take around 60 minutes, with the exception of Thursdays. On Thursdays you’ll be doing step ups and running, and these sessions can extend to 2 hours by the end of the cycle.

What if I can’t keep up the Monday through Thursday Training Schedule?
If for any reason you cannot keep training schedule, do not skip a training session. Rather, complete all the training sessions in succession. Whatever the schedule, always take three days a week, ideally together, as total rest.

What if I can’t complete the exercises using the prescribed loads?
Drop, or “scale” the load or weight as necessary to meet the prescribed number of reps or intervals on the system board. For example, if the training session calls for 5x Mr. Spectacular’s at 25# dumbbells and these are to heavy for you, drop to 20# dumbbells – whatever is required, to get 5 reps.

Likewise, if the training session calls for 5 rounds of 3 minute constant movement intervals on the system board and you can’t make the 3 minutes unbroken, step off the wall, take 30 seconds rest, and get back on. Ensure you’re on the board for the prescribed time – even if you have to break it up.

What does “constant movement” mean on the system board? 
During this cycle you complete 2-4 minute “constant movement” intervals on your system board. “Constant movement” means you can’t shake. You can move around the system board, but cannot place a tool, let it go, drop a hand and shake. We use “constant movement” top increase the intensity/difficulty of the training without adding weight.

How is this program different than your Expedition Ice/Mixed Climbing Program?
This program is designed to prepare athletes for ice/mixed routes with short approaches – day trips. The Expedition plan is designed to prepare athletes for long, multi-day trips in Alaska, the Canadian Rockies, etc.

What does the lower weight mean for the loading?
The lower weight is the female athlete load. For example, if the session calls for “6x Sandbag Getups @ 40/60#,” female athletes use a 40# bag, and male athletes need a 60# bag.

What if I miss a day?
Begin where you left off when you return to training. This programmed is progressed – each session builds upon the prior session – so don’t skip a session or skip around. Follow the training sessions in order, regardless.

Where do I find unfamiliar exercises?
See our Exercise Library HERE.

What about nutrition?
See our Nutritional Guidelines HERE.

More Questions?
Email: coach@mtntactical.com

Good Luck!
Rob Shaul
Mountain Tactical Institute
Jackson, WY

 DISCLAIMER
Before beginning any exercise program, consult with your physician to ensure that you are in proper health. Physical training contains inherent risks including, but not limited to, muscle strains, tears, physical and bodily injury up to and including death. This training program is not meant to provide medical advice; you should obtain medical advice from your private health care practitioner. If you are unable to assume these risks then you should not engage in this training program. No liability is assumed by Mountain Tactical Institute, Inc, its owners or employees, and you train at your own risk. Mountain Tactical Institute makes no warranty, express or implied, of any kind in connection with this training program.